So, before I left Blogger, I promised everyone that I’d write in greater detail about my past six months or so. Well, here it goes.
In March I stopped working and I went down to Malaysia and Thailand with my longtime friend Mattei. I had been to Ko Phi Phi and Kuala Lumpur a few years previously (some long-time readers might remember my scuba diving story from back then… check the archives for April 2006), but I had not been to Penang before. We had a great trip, but it ended in disaster when my camera bag with over $1,000 of equipment and all of the trip photos were stolen at the Yantai Airport.
From March to June I was enrolled full-time at 烟台大学 to study Mandarin. Before I knew it, I was packing up my possessions like a mad man and trying to figure out how to ship three years’ worth of accumulated crap halfway around the world to London. I ended up spending a fortune on shipping costs and leaving a tremendous amount of stuff behind. I still feel quite guilty about the state I left my apartment in. Oh well, the Chinese workers cleaning it out had a ton of free stuff to choose from.

Left to right: Apoorva, me, Graham, and Joel
I left 烟台 and headed down to 上海 for a few days to visit my future London roommate Apoorva. I was also fortunate to see some old friends from Yantai, Joel and Graham. We had a good night out and I found myself quite sad that my China days were numbered. After saying, “再见中国“ I headed down to Bali, Indonesia to start a one month trek across the Nusa Tenggara archipelago.
I cannot rave about Indonesia enough. It is an amazing country and you should not pass up the chance to go there. I had been to Bali before two years ago, but I only stayed in Ubud and never once went to the beach. This time I spent one week in Bali earning my PADI Advanced Diver so that I could go on some deeper dives.

Kuta Beach had some nice sized waves
I really don’t enjoy Kuta Beach much; its far too touristy for my taste, and life there pretty much revolves around the night life. Don’t get me wrong… I think its a really fun place to be with friends, but traveling alone its not the best option in the world. I did meet two nice girls on my first day of scuba diving, Laura and Sabine, who I went to dinner later with that night (and met their friend Lyndsay). It was a nice evening, though expensive as we were eating/drinking at one of the nicest clubs on Bali, the Coup d’etat. My last night in Bali, I picked up Dennis Valdez at the airport (a future London Business School classmate of mine… Dennis had arranged to fly down from 北京 to go traveling with me for a week or two) and spent the night chatting with him getting to know him better. We had spoken before on facebook, but this was my first time meeting him. Since we both had extensive experience in China, we had lots to talk about.

The beautiful sunsets of Gili Trawangan
After I earned my Advanced PADI certification (and finding a new favorite hobby: underwater photography… more on that in a later post), I headed over to the Gili Islands, a lazy set of three tiny islands known for their extreme beauty and sense of relaxation.

Incredibly relaxing
One thing I love about traveling alone is that it allows you the flexibility to do what you want, when you want, but it is also quite easy to meet people and find a group to travel with when you get a bit lonely. On Gili Trawangan, Dennis and I quickly became part of a group of really cool people; a few Germans, a couple from Namibia, some Canadians, some Americans, and a couple from England. I ended up traveling for quite a while with some of them and there are a few whom I am sure I will see again in the future.

Mt Rinjani to the left with the crater lake and cone
After almost one week of relaxing on the beach, scuba diving at Shark Point, and partaking in the crazy nightlife, Dennis and I decided it was time to head over to the main island of Lombok to climb Mount Rinjani, and active 12,226 foot tall volcano. We had heard it was tough, but we were both up for the challenge (turns out Dennis was much more so than I, having been an officer in the US Special Forces for 8 years). It was a three day trek (two up, 1 down) and we were accompanied by Dan and Jenny from London, our guide, and two porters.

I made it!

Dennis Valdez, future LBS classmate
Dennis will probably laugh at me for saying this, but it was the hardest thing physically I have ever done. Three times on the push to the summit, I collapsed from pure exhaustion. I’m still not 100% sure how I made it to the top, but the sense of accomplishment was fantastic. It was also damned cold up there.
From Rinjani, Dennis, Dan, and Jenny had to head back to Bali to leave the country. I went back to Gili Trawangan for a few days of well deserved rest. My legs felt like Jello for days… my German friend Laura had warned me, but I didn’t realize quite what she meant until I actually did it myself.
From the Gilis, I headed across to the other side of Lombok to catch a four day, four night boat to Komodo, Rinca, and Flores islands. Many of the original Gili group were taking this boat and when we all arrived on board it was a reunion of sorts. The boat was split into and upper and lower deck; upper reserved for our sleeping and the lower for eating.

A colorful boat passing by off of Rinca
Each night the ship’s cook made us a tasty Indonesian meal, usually rice, chicken, veggies, and of course sambal hot sauce (yum!). In the evenings we would anchor off of one of the 1,000’s of small islands and take a dip in the water. The coolest thing was that the water was full of the phosphorescent plankton, and any disturbance of the water made it light up like blue Christmas lights everywhere. People swimming had glowing hands and feet. When the boat was moving, the bow waves looked like waves of blue sparks flying through the air. Even having a piss over the side of the boat provided a lightshow where the urine was splashing in the water (this was discovered by a drunk Dutch guy on our boat who then felt the need to run over to us and demonstrate).

Our anchorage where we saw Flying Foxes
Our days were spent making headway towards Komodo and Rinca, occasionally stopping on an uninhabited island to go hiking through the jungle or swimming in a waterfall. As we got closer to Komodo, we had to be careful on the smaller islands where we stopped. We were playing ultimate frisbee on one beautiful beach, but we weren’t supposed to wander off the beach because there could be Komodo Dragons lurking in the tall grass. Komodos are only known to live on Komodo and Rinca islands, but being excellent swimmers it is highly likely that many of the smaller uncharted islands surrounding Komodo are also inhabited by them. The danger of the Komodo Dragon is that they are extremely fast runners and they have such dirty mouths that one bite will usually lead to a long, painful death via bacterial blood infection.

Biiiiiig Komodo Dragon
Though warned to be careful, we did not see any Komodos until we reached the Komodo National Park. On our first day we only saw one from a distance. That night we anchored offshore and at night we were treated to 1,000’s of Flying Fox Bats leaving a grove of Mangrove trees for a night’s hunting. Flying Foxes have a six-foot wingspan! It was an amazing sight, but I could not get a decent shot because it was nearly dark.
After arriving on Flores island, our boat group split up and said goodbye. I went scuba diving back in the Komodo National Park at Batu Balong, one of the best (and as I found out later, most dangerous) dive sites in the world. A few weeks before I went to Indonesia a group of divers went missing from this exact same dive sight and they were found washed up on Rinca island a few days later and they had been fighting off the Komodo Dragons with sticks, trying to survive!

Near Batu Balong dive site
The reason the dive site is so dangerous is it has very strong, very unpredictable currents. They can switch direction with little to no warning, so it is important to keep a visual reference on the wall so that you can tell if you suddenly start being sucked downwards into the ocean depths. This was also my first experience swimming with sharks (Shark Point in the Gilis didn’t count… there was only one small reef shark there). There was a point where the divemaster told us to hang back while he went ahead to check the current… as I waited, I turned and swimming about 5 meters away from me were eight or nine Oceanic White Tip sharks, one of the more aggressive, dangerous of the bunch. I kept my calm, as we had been told that if you are on the same level or below a shark you’re generally safe… they apparently tend to attack upwards only.
It was quite an eventfilled dive. After the sharks, we swam through a narrow gap between a pinnicle and the mountain. At the other side we performed an air check. Somehow, my buddy had gone through ALL of his air only halfway through the dive. We ended up having to buddy breathe him up to the surface, cutting the dive short since we were all sharing air. He was quite freaked out… we had been down at 27 meters, so we had to perform a safety stop even though were were low on air. When you’re low on air and start to panic, your natural instinct is to swim up to the surface. Fortuatnely, he didn’t freak out and we did the full safety stop to avoid decompression sickness. We made it back to the port and as we did so, I developed a tremendous pain in my left ear. The pain got so bad that I could hardly think… I ended up getting some WONDERFULLY strong pain killers at a local pharmacy when I got back to town. By the next day I felt fine, so I thought nothing more of it.

Ngada children in Luba village

Kid was terrified of me

New House Festival in Bozumi
From Lubuanbajo on the West side of Flores I took a 10 hour bus ride to Bajawa. Tourists go to Bajawa to visit the Ngada tribes people surrounding the town. The Ngada all live in very distinctive bamboo, wood, and mud houses with the houses arranged around a huge, terraced courtyard. Each day I would visit a few different villages, meeting with the village leader, signing their guest book, and giving a donation to the village to help support their traditional ways. I was lucky enough to be invited to a rather rare festival, the Ngada New House festival which happens once every few years. I was the only Westerner in the whole village, and I spent the day eating, drinking, and dancing with the villagers. Surrounding villages came to pay respect to the family and present a gift of a pig or two. On the day I was there we slaughtered one pig for dinner… it was such a loud, messy affair that after they told me they would be slaughtering over 100 pigs the next day and some buffalo, I decided that one day of the Ngada New House festival was enough and I skipped the 2nd day.
Well, its pretty late now (2:15am), and this post has gotten ridiculously long, so I’m going to end for now and write about Mount Kilamatu and it painted volcanic lakes later.